Our Favorite Dog Training Gear (the basics)
When you walk into any pet store, you’ll see that we are not shy about spending money on our furry pals! There are chew toys, tug toys, organic snacks, veggie treats, meat treats, raw food, grain free food, nail trimmers and nail clippers, dremels, wire brushes, mat brushes, collars, harnesses, leads…you get it!
And the problem is you ask 10 dog trainers about what’s best, you’ll get 10 answers. The methods we use come from actual hands-on service dog training so that tends to be the biggest influencer over what we like. There are always other options for you.
We’re going to share our favorite “tools” we use at Casa Luna Canines. We do NOT get any commission nor sponsorship from the products we list and we don’t have internet trackers from our site so feel free to click and shop around.
Remember, ultimately these are all “tools” and not magic pills that replace training and shaping your dog’s behavior.
What we didn’t and will never list are the aversive training methods that cause pain - namely shock collars and prong collars. We do not believe those have to be used EVER, under ANY circumstance. But what about training my dog at a distance? No. But what about off leash training? No. But, but what about if my dog is TOTALLY pulling on leash and I can’t control her? No. Never, under any circumstance and please don’t try to debate us on that. If you’re willing to trade in the pain for gain, we are here to help and invite you to give the positive methods a try.
Onward to our Favs!
Harnesses:
Harnesses: We recommend a harness that your dog can wear most of the time that has a FRONT clip for your leash. Overall, they are a safer way to walk your dog than a collar because there is no chance of your dog pulling so hard they damage or collapse their trachea (wind pipe).
We like the versions made from webbing because your dog can basically live in the harness. Our favorite brand is Sense-ible or Sense-ation from Softtouch (link takes you to their Amazon Page). Our runner up is Easy Walk Dog Harness by PetSafe (again, off to Amazon).
Why we like them: They can be worn by your dog for long periods of time so there is not as much struggle early on to get the harness on and off. On that same note, they have minimal clips with maximum adjustments. With the Softouch harnesses, you can hold them with one hand, teach your dog to “dress” by putting their head through the top loop, and only need one hand to clip under their belly. The Easy Walk has two clips, but usually you just need one - remember the odd color webbing goes UNDER the belly.
Each section of webbing is adjustable so they fit almost any dog (except Luna, of course! But almost nothing fits a pitties fat head, barrel chest and big shoulders.)
The front clip helps with deterring pulling because the dog is usually pulled around back towards the leash. Again, not a magic pill if you’re dog is a puller, but it’s a start that can greatly increase success in loose leash walk training.
What NOT to get: We strongly recommend NOT getting a back clip harness. This usually triggers the dog’s reflex to pull harder and you end up flying down the trail after your dog.
We also encourage you to stay away from the step in harnesses, unless it’s the only one that fits your particular pooch. They simply take a little longer to put on and can get tangled, but they do no harm so they are fine to use.
You can spend hundreds of dollars on very cute tactical vests that carry a lot of gear. Unless you are mountaineering with your dog or training for the purpose of gear hauling or search and rescue, you can probably save your money for more treats. They can also be very hot in the summer or if they get wet in the winter you have to dry them completely to make sure your dog doesn’t get hot spots from the wet vest.
Leashes
Leashes: We suggest having a few leashes for a few different occasions.
Primary Leash: No longer than 6 feet and shorter is better. Get a nylon or leather leash for durability.
For big dogs, we like the variety with a second handle because you have the option to have your dog walk closer to you but when they need the bathroom, or you decide to stop for a sniff or relax by the bench, you have a bit of freedom.
Secondary Leash: You may choose to have a double clip leash if you are training your dog. You can easily unclip one lead when teaching some desensitization but still have them secured. It can allow for lots of games on leash by giving you the option of a longer lead (using one clip) or shorter lead (double clipping). If you have a harness with a front and side/back clip, you will have maximum control over your dog. A double leash is also great if you are walking to TRAINED dogs at once.
Another variety: Once you know your dog doesn’t pull you over, a waist leash is a great hands free option for those of us that like to run, have hands free to feed treats or play or if we’re chronic phone users on our walks. These simply hook around your waist and you walk! They are also great for teaching YOU to be calm, confident and have loose arms while walking rather than the habit of gripping the leash and pulling back on your dog.
Long Lead: You may want a long lead of 15 - 30 feet if you are teaching distance training. Make sure they are Nylon (better than cotton) because they WILL be dragging on the ground, getting dirty and tangled.
What not to get: You can usually stay away from slip leash lines (or any version of choke chain collar) unless your specifically working on that method with your trainer. They can be a useful tool after YOU have been taught how to use them.
Do NOT get a retractable leash. They are not needed. They teach your dog to roam away from you rather than stay close and you have no control over your dog at a distance. We’ve seen MANY of them break with a good pull from a dog and then off they go and the game is chase me down!
Teathers/Tie Downs
Tethers/Tie Downs: To start, and please repeat this 22 times “Only use tethers or tie downs when your dog is supervised. Only use tethers or tie downs when your dog is supervised. Only use tethers or tie downs when your dog is supervised. Only use tethers or tie downs when your dog is supervised….”
Basically, we suggest tethers that are metal with a plastic coating. This makes them “chew proof” (or at least chew a lot longer and you can catch them because you “only use tethers or ties downs when your dog is supervised!”
Short Tether - We suggest a 3 foot tether to help with management of jumping up or teaching duration on beds and boundaries. This is for the beginning stages when you don’t want your dog wandering off. We find a 3 foot length the best because “most” dogs can lay down comfortably without getting tangled.
The first we like is from Wonder Dog Training, LLC and comes with a cute dog training tie down book. It’s short, sturdy and they sell versions of it with an eye hook and one with a loop tether to easily attach to furniture. Sure, you can make up that stuff yourself but it’s a cute and easy addition.
For large dogs that need a little more room, we like the 5 foot length tethers. The one shown in this link comes with a handle that’s great for the quick run back to the car (no need for another leash), or putting under the table leg or using the tether on your chew happy puppy.
We also like the dog restraints with a seatbelt clip for the car rides. It doesn’t replace the crash tested crates, but if your car doesn’t fit a large crate and you have a dog that jumps between front and back seat causing some serious safety issues while you drive, this may be a solid solution. The offer a few lengths so you should be able to find one that fits your Small to XL dog!
After that, you’re down the rabbit hole on lengths and features that we haven’t found super useful. Some local farm stores sell tethers that also have a ground screw and those can be helpful as you move to off-leash and distance training. Or when you’re camping and want your dog to stay around the site. The longer lengths mean you’ll be unwinding your dog from obstacles that stood in their way! Also, as we found out during one late night, if you dog wraps the tether around the fire pit the plastic cover WILL melt and you’re left with raw cable. Oops! Sorry, Luna!
Visit the Casa Luna Canines semi-private, group dog training web page for more information about Doggie Decorum where you can learn more (in person) about how to use this gear.
